Between these two stays in Dhunkharka, I followed an extraordinary guide and traveling companion, Francesca. We went around Kathmandu, its mounts, its valleys, its hills. From temples to monasteries, we walked a little, explored, tried to understand more history and religion with his guidebook. From Namobuddha to Buddhanath, two places of Buddhist culture that soothe conscience and ears, we shared moments of complicity in silence. We visited also Bhaktapur, a destroyed city since the earthquake in 2015. Bakhtapur has been more damaged than Kathmandu.
Derei Ramro cha.
Deebesh is the owner who welcomes us in his Ganesh Guest House in Bhaktapur while the high season has not started. The prices are little lower than usual; his cuisine is very delicious. Representations of the God with the elephant head make center stage on many walls. His head may end in black on my shoulder someday.
The character of Deebesh himself is impressive. Long hair gathered in a ponytail, belly, slanting eyes, he is not interested in money as a goal but as the means for its future projects. He is kindly to everyone, gives me advices and offers me to pick me up after Jomson (it's 200km single way!). In the corner of the table, he draws a map for a short hike around the city; always available if someone needs something, to eat or whatever. Straddling his unbreakable Honda, he guides the taxi of an old couple coming from Quebec in Kathmandu; roads are closed because of Dipawali Festival.
He teaches me how to ride a scooter at 10pm in the narrow cobbled streets of Bakhtapur; he prepares delicious Thukpas (noodle soup) and sometimes Dal that everyone eats without end nor hunger.
Swadiloo taya bayo (delicious food is ready).
I return to this Guest House to write these lines (early November).
Dee is still there, little busy and he gives me thousand apologizes being busy at that time.
Yet the guests seem not to notice that Dee is there for them, one hundred percent available them. On his face, I notice it is obvious to behave the way he does. But are we willing to give even an inch of what he gives to us? Could he ever witness that someone helped him the way he has given a service –for free most of the time? No, I do not think so; he is one out of the kindly community of people in this world who love and rarely count. His wife is sewing in the evening in the dining room, his son has a real talent in break-dance. All three of them form a lovely family.
The two boys who work for him in the kitchen, he picked them up from misery. One was out of a Buddhist monastery for some time and the other was a Tibetan refugee. The stories inspire respect. When, overnight, one leaves to follow his religious commitments, Dee smokes his cigarette, his eyes are sad, looking the emptiness; he remembers time and achievement he did for that boy. Later, he will find another boy who needs a frame, money; he will help and take care of him.
Really, this guy is Love.
Bet bayra ramro lagyo.
When Francesca leads back to Italy, I am living with the people I am meeting, over advices that one are giving to me. I'm waiting for the perfect moment to start the trek: begin of October (end of Moonson, sunny days). Flow.
I spend six days in another organic farm. This time awoke my mind about a main topic: integrity. The host is a guru -very open minded but very high (perched) in his faith. He is praying for peace three times a day, prayers called "Shanti Chanting", with his books full of mantras, his djembe and his bell. He smokes in a wooden pipe from time to time at night, and when his wife does not have her period, she participates in the ritual with tiny cymbals. It's a bit deafening, but if other Hindus also perform this recitation of mantras twice a day, the artistic expression that Krishna has chosen is very creative.
At first, I find his explanations interesting. He speaks about the purification of the soul to reach 'Diamond Island', a higher dimension than Paradise. Pure souls who join this island then have more chances to be reincarnated in a good and lucky human body. So, praying three times a day, sometimes whole day (he did it when his wife was hospitalized a few years ago) helps to purify the soul and promotes the improvement of our human goodness in order to have access to a better situation in our next life.
Perhaps I should have told you earlier to leave your rationality at the entrance.
Victoria, from England, is already here when I arrive in the farm. She works on new learnings about meditation, the practice of yoga, creation in some business and she has a very open minded vision about living energies and karma. She is a veteran of her life, she got trash stories to tell, she makes me laugh, she and the strength of her mind. Those kinds of women make my days, show the feminine power… They are soldiers of their lives, so strong.
She shows interest in the story of Krishna-the-Guru (not to be confused with the god Shree Krishna), but it does not take long time to make her realize that all those prayers are not her cup of tea. Indeed, Krishna's speech is more and more putting us off. He does not seem to be so honest and good as he pretends to be, he appreciates us almost and only for our wallet, he often speaks about this "entity that comes from heaven, and that comes to you automatically if you pray enough" (yeah… money). I do not even know what to think about it because he is convince he knows the ‘truth’ and at that time, I am very confuse about my future projects, what to do, in what I believe…
It's silly to realize it at 21: I am who I am and that I believe in God through an universal way, get inspiration from the world's religions. All of them has something to teach. Let me recall that I am traveling to develop little by little my conception of spirituality. This experience with Krishna refreshes my identity, teaches me to be wary of gurus. Above all, Victoria who has the energy of a lion - good same as bad-, gives me a boost of adrenaline to go forward, to follow my instinct (we often lie to ourselves), to enjoy this opportunity of traveling, this 360-degrees freedom. We fled together after a polite and honest Goodbye, leaving this delicious food that his wife was preparing in great quantities and we leave especially a good-but-greedy man who plays to be a god.
‘Create your environment’ is his tip, the only one that will stay in my memory.
I spend a few days with Victoria in Kathmandu then return to Kamal for the second time.
Tapai cho Naam che o?
Mero Naam Jharna o.
My local name is Jharna, it means "Cascade". It's beautiful, Kamal gave it to me.
(stolen sleep)
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